El Cajas National Park Travel Guide: Hiking in the Andes of Ecuador

Introduction to El Cajas National Park

Welcome to El Cajas National Park — a breathtaking high-altitude ecosystem located in the Andes Mountains of southern Ecuador, just 30 km (19 miles) from the charming colonial city of Cuenca. As your experienced travel guide, I’m thrilled to introduce you to one of the most underrated natural treasures in South America.
 

With over 230 glacial lakes, rugged mountains, rolling páramo, and mystical cloud forests, El Cajas is a hiker’s paradise and a sanctuary for Andean wildlife. Whether you’re a birdwatcher, trekker, or simply someone who craves pure mountain air, this park promises solitude, serenity, and soul-stirring scenery.


📍 Where is El Cajas National Park?

El Cajas National Park (Parque Nacional Cajas) lies in the Azuay Province of Ecuador, spanning altitudes from 3,100 to 4,450 meters (10,170–14,600 ft) above sea level. It's part of the continental divide, which means some rivers here flow to the Pacific, while others reach the Amazon basin.

The park is easily accessible by road and is a popular day trip from Cuenca, which is about 45 minutes by car.


🌿 Why Visit El Cajas National Park?

Here’s why El Cajas should be on your Ecuador itinerary:

1. 🥾 Epic Hiking Trails

From short 1-hour loops to full-day treks, El Cajas offers trails for every fitness level. You'll pass shimmering lagoons, jagged peaks, and ancient Polylepis forests, often called the "paper tree" forests.

2. 🐦 Rare Andean Wildlife

El Cajas is home to bird species like the Andean condor, giant hummingbird, and turquoise jay. It also shelters mammals like spectacled bears and mountain tapirs.

3. 💧 Glacial Lakes and Páramo Ecosystem

With more than 230 lakes, El Cajas is a key source of water for Cuenca and a model of ecological balance. The páramo — a high-altitude grassland — is unlike any other biome on Earth.

4. 🌥️ Cloud Forests

The park’s eastern slope features hauntingly beautiful cloud forests with moss-covered trees, orchids, and ferns — a photographer's dream.


📅 Best Time to Visit El Cajas

El Cajas has two main seasons, but thanks to its elevation, weather can change rapidly — you might experience sun, fog, rain, and hail all in a single day.

☀️ Dry Season (June to September):

Best for hiking and camping

Clearer skies and more stable trails

🌧️ Wet Season (October to May):

Lusher landscapes and fewer tourists

Trails can be muddy and visibility limited

🌡️ Average Temperature:
Ranges from 3°C to 15°C (37°F to 59°F) depending on altitude

🧥 What to Wear:

Waterproof jacket

Warm base layers

Hiking boots

Gloves and a hat


🐾 Top Hiking Trails in El Cajas National Park

Let me guide you through some of the most popular and rewarding hikes:


🥾 1. Laguna Toreadora Loop (Ruta 1)

Distance: ~5 km (3.1 miles)

Time: 2–3 hours

Difficulty: Moderate

Starting Point: Toreadora Visitor Center

This scenic loop takes you through Laguna Toreadora, open páramo, and mossy Polylepis forests. Great for first-time visitors looking for a balanced experience.


🥾 2. Tres Cruces to Toreadora (Ruta 3)

Distance: ~10 km (6.2 miles)

Time: 4–6 hours

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Altitude: Starts at ~4,100 m

Begin at the Tres Cruces Viewpoint (the continental divide), then descend through alpine valleys and wetlands toward the Toreadora area. Bring good boots and poles — the descent can be steep and slippery.


🥾 3. Llaviuco Lake Trail

Distance: 1–3 km

Time: 1 hour

Difficulty: Easy

Altitude: ~3,100 m

Perfect for acclimatization or families with children. The trail circles the picturesque Laguna Llaviuco, teeming with birds and surrounded by lush cloud forest.


📸 Top Attractions in El Cajas National Park

Besides hiking, here are the park’s unmissable sights:

🌄 Tres Cruces Viewpoint

The highest point in the park (4,167 m), this spot offers sweeping views of valleys below and dramatic cloudscapes — especially at sunrise.

🌳 Polylepis Forests (Quinoa Trees)

These twisted, reddish-barked trees grow at extreme altitudes and create a fairy-tale landscape. They are sacred to indigenous communities and support rare wildlife.

🦜 Birdwatching Hotspots

Don’t forget your binoculars! Look for:

Andean condors

Carunculated caracaras

Giant hummingbirds

Masked trogons

💧 Laguna Luspa & Laguna Osohuaycu

Hidden gems with mirror-like waters, often untouched by crowds.


🛶 Activities in El Cajas Besides Hiking

Camping: Free, but register at a ranger station

Fly Fishing: With permit, in designated lakes

Photography: Golden hour is stunning

Nature Walks: With local guides who know flora & fauna

Horseback Riding: Available near park boundaries


🏨 Where to Stay (Cuenca & Surroundings)

While there’s no hotel inside the park, options abound nearby.

🛌 Stay in Cuenca (45 min drive):

Mid-range: Hotel Victoria, El Dorado Hotel

Boutique: Mansion Alcazar

Budget: Selina Cuenca, La Cigale

🏕️ Mountain Lodges Near Park:

Dos Chorreras Lodge: Rustic comfort with views

Hacienda Guachapala: Great for groups or families

Eco-lodges near Llaviuco and Soldados


🍲 Food & Dining Tips

Bring snacks for the trail, but you’ll find two main places to eat:

1. Refugio Toreadora

Basic meals and hot drinks

Great place to warm up after hiking

2. Dos Chorreras Restaurant

Delicious trout, warm soups, and local dishes

Perfect for a post-hike meal

Must-Try Dishes:

Trucha frita (fried trout)

Locro de papa (potato soup with cheese and avocado)

Canelazo (hot cinnamon cocktail)


🧳 What to Pack for El Cajas

Waterproof hiking boots

Layers (base + fleece + waterproof shell)

Hat, gloves, and scarf

Snacks & water

Camera or phone with extra battery

Sunscreen & sunglasses

Flashlight or headlamp (for camping)

Optional:

Trekking poles

Binoculars

Map or downloaded offline GPS


🚗 How to Get to El Cajas National Park

From Cuenca:

By Car: Rent a car or hire a taxi (~$25 USD round-trip)

By Bus: Buses to Guayaquil stop at Laguna Toreadora (ask the driver) — $2–$3 USD

Tour: Many agencies in Cuenca offer half-day or full-day guided hikes, often including meals


🎟️ Entrance & Regulations

Entry Fee: Free

Hours: Open daily from sunrise to sunset

Registration: Required at park entrance

Guides: Recommended for long trails or multi-day hikes

⚠️ Altitude Caution: The park is very high! Acclimatize in Cuenca before intense hikes, drink lots of water, and watch for altitude sickness symptoms.


🌱 Responsible Travel Tips

El Cajas is part of Ecuador’s national park system and a biosphere reserve. Help protect this precious ecosystem:

Stay on marked trails

Take your trash out

Don’t pick plants or disturb wildlife

Avoid single-use plastics

Use eco-friendly sunscreen


💬 Final Thoughts: A Land of Clouds, Lakes, and Legends

El Cajas National Park is a land of surreal beauty and quiet grandeur. Every bend in the trail offers a new revelation — a lake glimmering in the sunlight, a condor soaring overhead, or the haunting stillness of a fog-shrouded forest.

For travelers who seek more than selfies and snapshots, Cajas offers a chance to connect with nature on a profound level. It’s not just a park; it’s a place of reflection, resilience, and reverence.

If you’re visiting Cuenca, don’t miss the chance to step into this Andean sanctuary.